April 26, 2024

How to know what anti-aging skincare to use and when

You may own the entire contents of Boots’ beauty catalogue, but for a lifetime of great skin, binging on beauty is not the answer. Over-stimulating your skin with products too potent can lead to irritation and inflammation and overloading it with those too rich can cause acne.

The most crucial step for healthy, glowing complexion? Use the correct ingredients that suit your skin age now in order to protect it for the future.

Follow our handy guide below to find out what you should be adding into your regular skincare regime, when and why. Anticipate nothing but great skin all year long….

Focus: Collagen Catalyst
Add in: Vitamin C

What is it?
Vitamin C is one of the strongest catalysts of collagen growth (collagen keeps skin firm, taut, and resilient) when applied topically. There are different types, but the most effective is L-ascorbic acid.

When should we start using it?
Skin Aging Expert, Dr Marko Lens recommends incorporating Vitamin C into your regime as you turn 20.

Try:
Vitamin C is notoriously unstable and oxidises when exposed to light and air, but these brands have found clever ways to capture the ingredient. It’s pricy but AlumierMD EverActive C&E, £149, is the most active vitamin C serum on the market. The high strength L-ascorbic acid (it’s 15% proof) stays fresh thanks to the dual chamber delivery system; vitamin C crystals are kept in an airtight pocket until the button is pressed, releasing them into the serum.

For something a little more purse friendly, Garden of Wisdom Vitamin C 23% + Ferulic Acid, £10 rivals the big bucks brands at only a tenner. Use daily post-cleansing.

Focus: Hydrate, Hydrate, Hydrate
Add in: Hyaluronic Acid

What is it?
Hyaluronic acid (HA) gives skin hydration and plumpness, but our own HA production starts declining around age 23. By age 35, HA production has decreased by 20%. If you don’t use additional HA in the form of products, you’ll see dehydration and associated fine lines and wrinkles arrive earlier than expected.

When should we start using it?
Cara Bondi, Vice President of Research Development for Tata Harper Skincare says, “to keep your HA levels where they need to be, adding it to your regimen before age 25 is key. ”

Try:
For a hard hit, each of L’Oréal Paris Hyaluronic Acid Ampoules are packed with a day’s dose of gold standard hyaluronic acid. (£19. 99 for a week’s programme)

Clinique iD, £36, is clever. Select the hydrating formula you prefer (gel, lotion or oil-free) then insert an active concentrate (choose from pore refining, line smoothing, calming and more); it pumps out the perfect dosage; 90% hydration, 10% active. Use AM and PM.

Focus: Damage Limitation
Add in: Antioxidants

What is it?
Be it a Haribo habit, Friday night cocktails or your daily latte, the sugar you consume can have a detrimental effect on your skin. Glycation is a process where the sugar from our diet produces free radicals. This may sound like a bad rock band but they’re actually molecules that damage skin by clinging onto collagen. This causes skin to become stiff and inflexible resulting in inflammation and lower ‘ping’ elasticity. Antioxidants neutralise the free radicals to stop this happening.

When should we start using it?
As you hit your mid-twenties.

Try:
Poor diet, stress and a hectic lifestyle are modern day skin sins. Murad Revitalixir Recovery Serum, £70, has been formulated to reverse the side-effects of them all.

Paula’s Choice Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum, £32, is enriched with a powerhouse of antioxidants; raspberry seed oil, grape seed extract and green tea. Suitable for those prone to eczema.

Focus: Skin Quality
Add in: Retinol

What is it?
Skin’s cell turnover slows with age, so dead cells sit there for longer and cause skin to look dull. Retinol purges gunk and dead cell debris out of pores, sloughing away dullness to transform the skin’s surface. Skin may become more sensitive with use and you’ll see some shedding, so start slow and steady. Use PM only, arm yourself with patience and wait three weeks for results.

When should we start using it?
Dr Dendy Engleman recommends incorporating a retinol into your regime age 25 – the time skin cell turnover starts to slow.

Try:
Elizabeth Arden Retinol Ceramide Capsules, £42, are the gentlest form of retinol you’ll ever use, packing a punch without the peeling. Retinol degrades easily but these bio-degradeable, single dose capsules make the formula 76% more potent than regular formulas.

La Roche Posay Redermic R, £29. 50, is a favourite among dermatologists. Use a pea-sized amount of this 0. 3% retinol (0. 5% should be your upper limit) every three nights for a fortnight until your skin can tolerate it nightly.

Focus: Skin Texture
Add in: Acids

What is it?

Nothing gets skin glowing better than acids. They work on the top levels of the epidermis, dissolving and breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells to reveal a new, baby-fresh layer. AHA’s (alpha hydroxy acid) are best for dry skins, while BHA’s (beta hydroxy acid) suits normal to oily skin.

When should we start using it?

“Once you enter your 30’s,” says Dr Gross, “is the time to start exfoliating daily for radiant and even-toned skin. ”

Try:

Drunk Elephant’s TLC Framboos Night Serum, £76, contains glycolic acid (AHA) to exfoliate the surface layer of skin, dissolving sebum and clearing congestion.

Caudalie Vinopure Skin Perfecting Mattifying Serum, £29, contains 100% naturally derived salicylic acid (BHA) that penetrates deep into your pores to un-clog them.

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