Talk about a major skin moment backstage at Burberry. Brows were washed out by makeup artist Pat McGrath to allow the complexion to take centre stage, as well as create a blank canvas for the hair squiggle masterpiece created by maestro Guido Palau for Redken.
Us: Less is more? Ashish: Nah. Big hair and a big splash of glitter, thanks. Isamaya Ffrench used three different colours of MAC Glitter on the eyes and two different shades on the lips to create this shimmery chaos – LOVE!
MAC’s lead makeup artist, Isamaya Ffrench turned models into Pinocchio’s with prosthetics and created masks of plastic, but our favourite backstage beauty bits from Vivienne Westwood were the airbrushed gold faces and recyclable nail art. Responsible for the latter, manicurist Marian Newman used silver strips and shapes cut from recycled metallic materials to create negative space nail art, all in the name of sustainable fashion.
Bold brows took a back seat again at Christopher Kane where the focus was kept on fresh faces. Popping on a face mask ASAP.
Isamaya Ffrench was inspired by ‘old-fashioned cruise ships’ when she created the iridescent, separated gold lids at Halpern. Step one was loose strokes of MAC Chroma Paint, creating a patchwork of colours. Step 2? Cover the painted Masterpiece with gold leaf and pat until the foil starts to separate and ‘crack’ to give a glimpse of the rainbow shades beneath.
House of Holland
Makeup artist Zoe Taylor also got the memo for bold lids; lining, painting and blending the best of MAC’s teal blues backstage at House of Holland.
As for Peter Pilotto – forget winged liner, Inge Grognard replaced the traditional technique with tiny feathers on the outer corners of eyes for a softer take.
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
For a milder take on the frizzy, undone hair trend, GHD ambassador, Eugene Souleima teased surface fuzz and manipulated tufts out of low ponytails for an ‘air-dried and real look with imperfections’ at Preen.
With the inspiration of a 60s Tippi Hedren, Erdem’s hair and makeup put a futuristic twist on the old school beehive and cat eye. Val Garland kept the graphic eye velvety by layering NARS Pandora Duo Eyeshadow over eyeliner, while L’Oréal Professional’s hairstylist Antony Turner created an ‘anti-head shape’ with plenty of teasing and hairspray.
Want to nail this static hair look? All you need is a balloon, apparently. Backstage at Alexa Chung, hair stylist Alex Brownsell (for L’Oréal Professional) rubbed an inflated balloon over hairlines to charge baby hairs with static. ‘Keep movement in one direction, because… well, science’ Alex advised.
At Mary Katratzou, ‘grumpy, moody and lank’ waves were created by stylist Anthony Turner and given hand-painted, technicolour accents by Josh Wood. Make these waves by pushing hair up until it bends then clamp downwards with a curling iron. No brush, just ‘messy side part, hair dragged over and a bobby pin shoved in, like the emo girl at the party’ Anthony told us. The CND nails were inspired by the elements, with earth and fire designs adorning the fingers of each model.
Makeup artist Dick Page used MAC to create this show-stopping eye makeup at Michael Kors, only made all the more fabulous with the kinky, voluminous waves by hair stylist Orlando Pita.
Gelled back hair was met with graphic eyeliner at Proenza Schouler, painted on a selection of models by makeup artist Dick Page.
Oscar de la Renta
In classic Oscar de la Renta style, Tom Pecheaux for MAC created an elegant look with blurry, berry-stained lips, fresh skin and “secret contour”.
Elaborate, feathered hair accessories graced the heads of models at Marc Jacobs this season and we’re totally here for it.
Swept back to the side, with slightly textured roots was the go-to look on the runways at Hugo Boss. Makeup was kept minimal with neutral tones on the eyes.
Hair stylist Garren styled multicoloured wigs to compliment the bright collection at Anna Sui.
So chic, so sexy – a deep side part by hair stylist Renya Xydis for Wella Professionals teamed with a classic eyeliner flick at Zimmerman.
Makeup artist Romy Soleimani for Bobbi Brown created a painterly look at Carolina Herrera with vivid brush strokes across the eyes.
Backstage at Brandon Maxwell, makeup artist Tom Pecheux for MAC created “eyes that wouldn’t lie to you” (translation, mascara, falsies and a few lower lashes flicked on with eyeliner).
Hairstylist Bob Recine created the “Supersonic chignon” backstage at Brandon Maxwell, using the Dyson hair dryer to slick the hair back in the perfect low ponytail and then twisting sections into an intricate bun.
Romantic smokey eyes took centre stage at Brock Collection, alongside a flawless complexion and soft contour. Makeup artist Gucci Westman used fingers to apply brown-hued eyeshadows for a soft-focus effect.
Hair stylist Peter Gray used the Dyson Supersonic hair dryer to smooth hair before wrapping into a low, loose chignon at the nape of the neck at Brock Collection.
Bold smokey eyes on an otherwise bare face graced the runway at Jeremy Scott, adding further impact to the striking collection.
Backstage at Jeremy Scott, the newspaper print that adorned the fashion was continued onto the nails with slogans spelled out across each finger.
Meanwhile, hair stylist Eugene Souleiman, for Wella Professionals, created statement white streaks in the hair, perfectly complementing the monochrome collection.
Soft smokey eyes met swept back hair backstage at Prabal Gurung, where makeup artist Diane Kendal used the MAC Autumn/Winter trend palette to apply a variety of brown hues to lids.
Using plenty of Redken Dry Shampoo Paste for texture and hold, hair stylist Guido Palau create futuristic, horse whip braids that grazed the model’s tailbones. Meanwhile on the makeup, Diane Kendal kept it simple with a diffused smokey eye.
Wella Professionals’ Global Creative Director Eugene Souleiman created tough-girl hair for Dion Lee, using plenty of Wella Root Shoot Mousse to add a dirty texture to the roots.
Glitter stole the show at Rodarte, where makeup artist James Kaliardos was inspired by the glamour of old school musicals. Using NARS, he painted different shades of pinks and reds onto lids and lips, before pressing glitter on top for a dazzling finish.
Soft and exquisite hair was the name of the game at Ralph Lauren, where Guido called upon Redken’s Frizz Dismiss Oil Mist to give hair an expensive finish.
Tom Ford served up a double dose of glamour with a autumnal smokey eye, jet-black eyeliner and slick side parts.