A unifying thread across many of the collections has been art imitating life in an homage to the tough times we’ve faced recently, and a sense of optimism for the good moments yet to come, when spring (and the corresponding spring fashion collections) usher in a new day.
At Simone Rocha, the collection was a celebration of “comfort and security in the extreme.” Comfort-clothes, like ergonomic shoes, cutesy bows and cocoon coats, were given a high-fashion spin, while the beauty saw a Victoriana throwback of pearl-embellished curls combined with sunburnt, escapism skin.
Bora Aksu was inspired by the deadly flu pandemic of 1918 that ripped through Europe toward the end of WWI and the time of optimism that followed. “The change in women’s roles in society, especially the nurses and the way they dressed, is the source of inspiration,” said the brand. For beauty, delicate, gauzy face coverings were layered over fuchsia pink lips.
Onto the next fashion week of the season and despite concerns over whether the show should go on, in London, creatives like designer, Bora Aksu determined that now, more than ever, we need a sense of occasion and (careful, socially distanced) contact. Not having a traditional show would be “cutting off that human touch, I really couldn’t do it,” he said.
It’s why brands like Burberry, Erdem, Molly Goddard and more all put their all into creating a spectacle this season.
Elsewhere, extravagance, opulence and escapism reined supreme as embodied by Molly Goddard’s bright, liberated edit of voluminous, colourful dresses. Despite initially planning something more neutral and pared back, the designer said she realised how “dark and depressing the last few months had been.” Thus, she dished up a riotous platter of neon pink tulle, orange florals, yellow polka dots and fun. The hair look, created by Luke Hersheson, was inspired by 90s grunge Kate Moss.
At Rixo, the designer gave us respite in fashion form with an other-worldly underwater theme finished off with wet-look silver eyeshadow, created by NARS’Global Makeup Artist, Vincent Ford.
Suffice to say, that despite the challenges, London came back fighting this fashion season.