Given that fashion and beauty is so inspired by the world around us, it’s unsurprising that the vision behind the hair and makeup looks being dished up this time round, have shifted, too.
Not only have the creatives behind this seasons beauty trends had to tweak their concepts to fit in with the constraints of PPE and safe distancing, the fact that the models needed to keep putting on and taking off their face coverings backstage, means that the makeup has taken a mask-friendly turn. Very good news for the rest of us.
Things are a little different this fashion season. With concerns around the practicalities of pulling off the ginormo runway shows we’re used to in the midst of the Covid 19 pandemic, New York Fashion Week has undergone an evolution.
Shows have been scaled down to a maximum of 50 socially-distanced guests, streamed online or switched to pre-recorded video and photoshoots. The model count has dwindled from the 15-30 girls of previous seasons to fewer than a handful, and the time required to get the outfits and beauty looks in place has stretched to allow for everything to be done safely.
Here’s the best mask-friendly beauty trends to come from NYFW’s SS21 shows…
Faux freckles at Jason Wu
Backstage at Jason Wu, Gigi Hadid’s favourite makeup artist, Erin Parsons created faux sun-kissed freckles using a budgeproof liquid lipstick from Maybelline. To ensure cheeks looked extra fresh, she applied the brand’s Cheek Heat liquid blush in Nude Burn (a tawny pink) before flecking the freckles on using flat brush and some SuperStay Matte Ink Lipsticks in brown shades like Amazonian and Fighter depending on the model’s skin tones.
Abstract eyelids at Zero + Maria Cornejo
Makeup artist, Dick Page, worked with designer Maria Cornejo to elevate the matchy matchy face masks that complemented her collection. Like a cool pair of sunglasses, this abstract eye is best thrown on, in painterly brush strokes, rather than meticulously applied.
Ombre eyes at Chromat
Since the model’s faces were covered with masks at Chromat, the beauty look centred squarely on the eyes where makeup artist Fatima Thomas used MAC’s Pro Chromaline Acrylic Paints in various shades to create two-toned ombré graphic floating liners and stand-out shadows.
Fuchsia liner at Batsheva
Makeup artist, Francelle Daly created an assortment of graphic eyes to toughen up the pretty silhouettes at Batsheva. Our favourite? The fuchsia liner.
Floral face paint at Anna Sui
Makeup legend, Pat McGrath, was obviously not going to let a little thing like half our faces being obscured stop her from working her magic. For Anna Sui’s spring/summer collection, she used face paint to decorate the models’ temples with pretty daisy designs. Beautiful and visible whether you’re masking-up or not.
Lavender lids at Tom Ford
Lavender eyelids and fuchsia lips doesn’t sound like a very rock ‘n’ roll combination, until you see it on the models for Tom Ford’s SS21 collection, where D.I.S.C.O has been given an edgy update. If you’re going out, ditch the lip, if you’re staying in and Face-Timing, recreate using the Eye Color Quad in 23 African Violet and Lip Color Matte Lipstick in 05 Plum Lush from the brand’s vivid SS21 makeup collection, which Ford himself described as “an expression of joy. Perhaps there is a party to go to – even if there’s not.” Even better, he notes, “it does, of course, look great on zoom.”
Matching masks and nails at Rebecca Minkoff
Rebecca Minkoff teamed up with KISS nails’ impress manicure for the Autumn Winter 2020 presentation (shown alongside the spring summer 21 shows). Perfect for autumn and bonfire season, the design was created by nail stylist Gina Edwards on a black base colour using silver star decals from the KISS nail art starter kit to match the face masks from Minkoff’s new collection.
Hollywood glam at Naeem Khan
Gold lids and red lips is a classic combo made modern with ultra fresh skin at Naeem Khan. Unsurprising given that dewy skin queen Namvo was behind the makeup look. To recreate IRL, choose a budge-proof liquid lipstick from our edit of the best.
Wispy lashes at Rodarte
NARS’ director of global artistry, UZO, was the brains behind the whimsically romantic beauty look that has become the fashion brand’s trademark. Delicate faux lashes were added just to the centre of the lash line (top and bottom) to lend a subtle nod to the 60s.
Aquamarine hair at Claudia Li
If you want to go barefaced, focus on doing something statement with your hair instead. Case in point: the Claudia Li presentation where the model sported an aquamarine buzzcut.
Stained lips also at Rodarte
While half the models wore nude lips, the oxblood shade used on the others “delivered that unexpected twist that we have come to love about Rodarte,” said UZO. NARS’ Precision Lip Liner in Cassis and Opulent Red lipstick were used to create the colour which was blurred around the edges for a more hazy effect.
Romantic eyes at Ulla Johnson
Models at Ulla Johnson were given a “spring warm-up” by Bobbi Brown’s Artist in Residence Romy Soleimani. The inspo was “positivity, good vibes, optimism” and the desire to create something that looked “alive and hopeful” according to Soleimani who used, Bobbi Brown’s Long-Wear Cream Shadow Stick in Taupe on eyes and the Crushed Lip Color in Sunset just to the centre of lips.
Fresh skin at Veronica Beard
Ideal for the minimalists, Veronica Beard’s beauty look focused on skin health and freshness. “The look is healthy and glowy and doesn’t feel too cosmetic,” said Bobbi Brown’s Artist in Residence Romy Soleimani who was also behind this look. “Just luscious skin with a little smokiness to the eyes.”