As Warren explains to GLAMOUR, mounted brows enhance facial symmetry, frame the face and really open up the eye area; basically helping us cheat 8 hours sleep when in reality, we were up all night catching up on Normal People.
Leading the big brow brigade is Kate Middleton, who has been rocking what Bobbi Brown’s senior pro artist, Warren Dowdall, is dubbing ‘mounted brows’.
“It’s about adding structure and soft definition with 3D texture but being mindful to not create heaviness,” he told us. “And Kate has really got this trend spot on with her brow shape and product application.”
Warren maintains that the brows frame your face, so make sure you are grooming them and defining them ahead of any video calls, as an un-done brow can create the illusion of tired and dull eyes whereas a groomed and mounted brow (hello, Duchess!) can distract from any discrepancies and create a wider, brighter-eyed look, especially on camera.
Face shape plays a really important part in brow structure – especially with this stronger, mounted brow look,” he explains. If you have a rounder shaped face, a slightly higher arch will look really flattering. If you have a longer face, a flatter, straighter looking brow shape looks great. For an oval shape, keep things softly angled and for a square face, a low arch with a soft rounded shape will work wonders.
Mapping out the shape is also super key for this look. Here is Warren’s simple guide for mapping our your shape…
- In the mirror, take a brush and hold it perpendicular to the side of the nose to find out where the front of the brow should start.
- Mark each point with a brow pencil to give you a guide.
- Next, look straight ahead and hold the brush straight up to the outer side of the pupil – follow your brush up to the brow and this will give you the placement for you arch.
- Lastly, to find the end point of the tail of the brow, rest your brush against the bottom of your nose at a 45 degree angle to the end of your brow.
Once you’ve mapped the ideal brow shape for your face, you can move on to creating this mounted brow look – and it’s all about building up textures.
“If you have a naturally fuller brow, use a brow pencil to map out your shape, and the use a powder brow kit with an angled brow brush to gently build the shape and fill in any gaps. Follow with brow shaper to set in place for a long wear finish.
“If you have less of a dense hair growth or are a brow beginner, use the Bobbi Brown Brow Shaper first to create texture and lift in the brow – then follow with powder or pencil as needed for a perfectly polished mounted brow.”
Need a quick brow tidy to help you perfect the mounted brow look? Warren has a handy hack: fill in the brow first into the shape you want and then simply tweeze away any stray hairs outside of that shape.
“It’s stops you taking away too much and ruining the shape,” he adds.