DLa in orderto figure out how to change the matte lipstick for the last five years, the editors BeautyHack tested novelties, makeup artists and assistants marks explained how brands create a matte texture and avoid the obvious problem of dry lips.
5 years of hype around the matte lipsticks insiders of the industry seriously associated with “instrumnet” trend – such colors are best to look in the photo. According to celebrity makeup artist Robert Seneca, pure rich color without Shine advantageously emphasizes the lips and makes them stand out in the picture. This technique was successfully used team Kylie Cosmetics (in 2016 sets Kylie Lip Kit took over the world) and Huda Beauty – no matter how you feel about their philosophy, the digits in Instagram accounts and on the pages of Forbes talking about the incredible success. But these stamps just caught a trend that is carefully nurtured for decades, the brand M. A. C. In 1984, the owner of a beauty salon Frank Angela and photographer Frank Tuscany have created their own brand just because they didn’t like as existing at the time the makeup behaves in the frame. So there was the first matte lipsticks, which are almost immediately tested the Madonna. The singer used them for photo shoots, and in 1990-m has toured with Russian Red on the lips.
In 2014 Charlotte Tilberry introduced the famous series matte lipsticks The Matte Revolution “hoisted” on a good half of their stars (the shade Very Victoria, for example, loves Meghan Markle). Charlotte fell swoop answered all questions about the impracticality of matte lipsticks, adding to the composition of Orchid extract and other moisturizing ingredients – means not dry the lips but stay on them as long as possible. Think of it as the beginning of a new era: gloss, temporary crowding of lipstick, go by the wayside. On the ground – matte texture of a fundamentally different quality.
Why lipstick dry the lips and the producers solve this problem?
Star makeup artist Lena Yasenkova explains that before a matte lipstick feels reminiscent of plasticine on the lips – steady, but not super comfortable. “Now there is a sense that on the lips of a foreign body. Most often I use the formula, and even matte lipsticks are always trying to get the most natural effect. Fingertips pierce the shade on the lips. For this I have several tools: Powder Kiss Lipstick from M. A. C, stick Romanovamakeup in shade Praline (they allocate to the contour of the lips due to the matte texture gives a very natural effect) and liquid lipstick Tatouage Couture in the shade 7. All are suitable for daytime makeup – lips look natural!”
The idea is not to share makeup for day and evening this year was supported by the Chanel brand by updating the collection Rouge Allure. “Let the women will have the freedom to choose what effect they want to achieve,” he wished Lucia Peak and released more than a dozen new shades with a classic matte finish and the effect of powder. SMM-Manager BeautyHack Alexander Grishin tried a new al 112 shade from the Rouge Allure Velvet Extreme: “Fine to apply without a pencil, not flowing during the day (but it leaves traces on the mug). Even after dinner will look decent on the lips. But the feeling of tightness is not quite the word, although a matte finish is usually suggests otherwise”.
“Now girls have the opportunity to choose: to make a powdery effect on the lips or apply a liquid matte lipstick with a classic finish,” explains Lena Yasenkova. And it is all thanks to the hard work on the formulas. The main working components of the first matte lipsticks – tight waxes, which are mixed to a uniform consistency with a huge amount of pigment created the most stable, but “plasticine” effect. Now they are much lighter, require less pigment to the desired concentration, and this allows you to add in the formula of the lipstick moisturizing ingredients. With the latest each brand to cope in their own way. Lead NARS makeup artist Anastasia Ignatova said that liquid Velvet Lip glide Glide, which this fall added five Ludovisi shades, for the care of the responsible argan oil and extracts of water Lily and white tea.
Sticks Artist Lip Blush Make Up For Ever (they are some of the most important autumn read here) with a powdery and velvety finish, which are released in 2018, but is ready to grant the title of the bestseller, the softness of texture was achieved by three oils, hyaluronic acid, synthetic mica and quartz. According to the national make-up artist Make Up For Ever in Russia Anna Merkusheva, all manufacturers now want to combine caring properties, durability and striking result, “we are very spoiled by the comfort and the other just can’t imagine.”
Long-lasting matte lipsticks make polymers. For example, in the new series Supreme Matte from Shu Uemura, which will soon appear in Russia, pigments polimerizatsiya right on the lips. Visually, it looks like this: apply the applicator liquid lipstick, water and volatile substances in the formula evaporates, it is applied on the lips, color film becomes thinner and the lips are filled with color. Expert brand Catherine Nikishkina explains that this technology allows to obtain a plastic finish and completely eliminate the tightness of the lips. At the same time, the applicator can immediately draw a clear outline without a pencil.
A separate category of matte lipsticks – funds with a metallic finish. Most popular in a huge palette Lime Crime release. Despite the obvious concrete durability, these funds need to adapt: not every day, and application requires skill. Makeup artists recommends to adjust the contour of these lipsticks concealer.
A more wearable version of the latest edition BeautyHack found at Avon. The brand has released a series of Lumenous Velvet with a delicate metallic finish. The effect of shimmering particles, which can also dry lips, is flattened at the expense of a smaller content of the powder in the composition. The assistant edition Arina Tarudko are already in the bag two shades of Pink and Prismatic Gilded Berry: “After application it seems that the lipstick is sticky, but the effect passes in about 10 minutes. Means falls flat and leaves an impressive Shine, but this is a classic pink with a candy scent is perfect for me in every day. Plus, they really are persistent – nothing smeared after snacks.”
Unusual bright “metallic” look from Dior and Givеnchy: rich dark red or red with a touch of retro style – all shades are in autumn collections. And for Christmas limited edition Dior Midnight Wish, on the contrary, chose a classic warming colors and a comfortable satin texture. One of the lipsticks in the Matte shade Classic already in the Christmas bag senior editor BeautyHack Anastasia Speranskaya: “Layering tool is not needed! The first time it turns the color in the stick. The lipstick’s creamy texture, which completely dries out – it turns out the satin finish and the feeling of a second skin on the lips. I would advise to use a lipstick along with a pencil the contour will extend the durability”.
How to wear matte lipstick with the other accents in the makeup?
To classic colors and textures all more or less got the hang of it, but the palette is updated annually (about the hottest shades of fall we wrote here), and the metallic finish combined with bright scarlet lipstick and completely misleads even the most notorious butyricum.
NARS makeup artist Anastasia Ignatova advises to choose a shade of matte lipstick, based on the shape of the lips and hair color. But there are no rules: “Sudovye shades will certainly fit all (very cool they used the top models of the 90’s). Bright matte lipsticks look spectacular on girls with full lips. If you have light eyes and skin, you can choose darker shades. Girls with warm tone suited red-coral shades. The main thing is to focus on the image as a whole. In makeup there are no hard and fast rules”.
The same pale purple in the matte version a couple of years ago looked strange, and now he’s almost forced out fuchsia. “Pale lilac perfect for girls with a porcelain or fair skin. Moreover, he’s as good as a standalone accent or in combination with smoky eyes. And matte lips always complement the shiny texture on the eyes and cheeks,” says Anastasia.
The artists of the brand Avon explain how to be lipsticks with a metallic finish: “you Can do actual mono-makeover. The metal shade to match the lipstick to actively apply the eyelashes and a neutral face on the movable and lower eyelid. A classic image, but also with unusual lipstick: thin arrow, active dyed eyelashes and “metal” lip”.
A more traditional alternative to chocolate neutral to smoky. Importantly, to actively paint over the lashes for a perfect balance in the makeup. If they forget, the lips will “win” the focus on yourself.
Text: Julia Casoli