Has she? Hasn’t she? Nooo, she couldn’t have. Wait, she did? Oh, who gives AF! Our faces are officially not up for debate. According to research agency Mintel, 53% of millennials consider non-surgical treatments, such as Botox, fillers and lasers, to be an increasingly normal part of our beauty routines.
Given this open perspective, the brands that produce lasers and injectables have introduced a new generation of innovations to replace plastic surgery and bypass our usual brow-shaping and lip liner rituals. Feeling Bo curious? Here’s the lowdown on the newness at the end of the needle.
Treatments mentioned in this feature are approved by the Medicines. And Healthcare Products Regulatory Agency (MHRA) or the Food And Drug Administration (FDA). The practitioners featured are unlikely to perform treatments on patients under the age of 21.
Prime, conceal, powder, repeat. What if there was a shortcut for our foundation routines? “The big skin trend for 2019 is reducing pigmentation and smoothing areas with injectable skincare, so you can wear less make-up,” says aesthetic surgeon Dr Jonquille Chantrey.
Step forward Profhilo, a new type of injectable moisturiser using hyaluronic acid (a sugar molecule that attracts water to keep cells hydrated). “It’s the same ingredient as a traditional filler, but with a different viscosity,” says Mr Dan Marsh, co-founder of The Plastic Surgery Group, which performs the treatment. So instead of staying in one place to create volume, Profhilo travels evenly across the skin.
It involves tiny injections in five key points of the face: near the ears, on laughter lines, the chin, under each eye and on cheekbones. “After two treatments [£750 all in], it promises radiant and plumped skin, akin to a really good facial that lasts for around six months.” Alternatively, Juvéderm Volite (from £350, Dr Jonquille Chantrey) offers a similar intensely moisturising result, but in just one treatment, this time with up to 100 tiny needle pricks all over the face and neck, to improve elasticity, hydration and smoothness.
It’s not just complexions that derms are zoning in on. “Body contouring will be increasingly in demand this summer,” says Dr Chantrey who performs CoolSculpting (from £600), which freezes and permanently reduces pockets of fat that are resistant to diet and exercise. Over 12 weeks after freezing, the fat cells crystallise and are naturally eliminated by the body. This is no gimmick: in recent years, more than five million treatments have been done worldwide, and the demand for chin slimming has now resulted in the brand designing the CoolAdvantage Mini for use on smaller areas of fat.
On its heels is EMsculpt – only available at a handful of clinics in the UK. Instead of freezing, it uses electromagnetic currents to destroy fat, with the added benefit of simultaneously stimulating and strengthening muscles. “Patients use it to tone their abs or give their bum a lift, all with no surgery and no downtime,” says Dr Rita Rakus, whose eponymous clinic offers it at £800 per session. “We have one machine and it’s going day and night.”
The latest laser buzzword? Red. As in red light therapy and the infrared LED sauna Kendall Jenner got for her 23rd birthday from her sisters (adopt us, please?). “It’s such cool technology and the different light settings benefit the skin internally,” said Kendall, backstage at the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show in November 2018. Completely non-invasive, infrared light effectively boosts cell turnover, detoxes the skin, heals psoriasis (which Kendall suffers from) and rebalances cortisol – the stress hormone that royally messes up your complexion. No space for a full-on sauna? No problem: Dr Dennis Gross DRx SpectraLite FaceWear Pro (£430, Cult Beauty) emits infrared, as well as blue light that kills acne-causing bacteria. Think Iron Man’s mask meets at-home facial.
Things we know for sure. 1) No one gets enough sleep. 2) The skin around the eyes is super-thin. 3) When we’re exhausted the dark blood vessels show up more. 4) Concealer is life. But what’s the alternative? Next-level eye-refreshing treatments to blur out bags are on the rise. “I was tired of looking tired,” says Fraser McEwan, managing director and aesthetic practitioner at MD Aesthetic in London.
“I asked our clinic doctor Dr Sofia Hussain to do a tear-trough filler [£495] on me. She injected filler to plump out the under-eye hollow, which has a diffusing effect on dark circles, thus brightening the area.” Not for the faint hearted, however, needles are super-fine and a local anaesthetic numbs the area during treatment.
Staying with dark circles, some derms are embracing the new trend for using the body’s own cells to fix themselves, adopting platelet-rich plasma (PRP) technology. “It’s about taking growth factors from the patient’s blood and injecting it around the eyes to stimulate cell energy, which in turn improves dark circles and uneven skin colour,” says Dr Chantrey. One to research is Exokine, a hyper-concentrated PRP treatment launched in January (£875, Eudelo).
Once upon a time the only option for bigger lips was an over-inflated collagen trout pout. Welcome to 2019’s subtle new lip menu, headed up by British cosmetic surgeon Dr Tijion Esho, AKA The Lip King. “I focus on the Cupid’s bow and a 50/50 ratio between the top and bottom lip for the most natural-looking result.” His signature Nano-droplet technique (from £300) places tiny amounts of hyaluronic acid at varying depths and points along the lipline, as well as inside the lips, as opposed to a single lump of collagen filler. The finished effect (which usually dissolves within a year): a seamless, subtle enhancement.
The glow down
We don’t even joke about skipping our Huda highlighter, but Manhattan’s Dr Dara Liotta’s patients don’t need any. She’s come up with LitLift – a long-lasting illuminating treatment. Small amounts of injectable hyaluronic filler (in varying viscosity) are placed precisely where light hits the face – and where strobing products are usually applied: the forehead, browbones, down the nose, the chin and along the cheekbones. The effect can last up to two years. “We do a similar facial rebalancing treatment,” says Dr Hussain, which includes cheekbone enhancement for a contoured effect, plus a brow ‘lift’ to replicate the shaping effects of threading. From £485, MD Aesthetic.
There’s so much more a savvy derm can do with Botox these days than zapping frown lines. The muscle-relaxing injectable – owned by pharmaceutical giant Allergan – is the star ingredient in many of Dr Charlotte D’Souza’s treatments. These include the ‘bunny nose’ treatment (from £200), where Botox is used to prevent fine-line creases on either side of the bridge of your nose when you smile, and Masseter treatments (£300) to slim the face by relaxing the muscles in overly pronounced, square jawlines.
And for those not wanting to go down the lip-contouring route, there’s the ‘gummy smile’. “If your top lip tucks itself inwards and disappears when you smile, we’ve now found a way to relax those specific lifting muscles using Botox,” says Dr Hussain (from £195,
MD Aesthetic). The result? A long-term illusion of a fleshier, fuller lip.
Let’s Talk Tweakments
Six things to do before you even look at that syringe:
- Go to baaps.org.uk to research a qualified aesthetician.
- Remember, it’s not forever: the effects of Botox and hyaluronic-acid fillers last between four months and a year.
- Ask where your injectable comes from. The leading brands to trust are by major pharmaceutical companies such as Galderma, Allergan and Merz.
- Read the paperwork: you’ll need to sign a contra-indications form, including post-treatment tips and information about side effects. Aesthetic treatment social hub thespotlyte.com is a great research space, too.
- Avoid cheap thrills. If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is. Typically non-cosmetic treatments start from £200.
- If you’re nervous, talk it out with your practitioner.
Our insider experts on the three new buzzwords to know:
“There’s a new ‘B Type-2’ toxin launching later this year – you’ll need less of it and the results will last longer,” says Dr Esho.
“Nanofat is a new fat-grafting technology that combines your own stem cells with fillers to give the most subtle results. No one wants to look overdone,” says Dr Guillaume Lemierre, a plastic surgeon at Epilium Skin.
“This uses non-invasive cryotherapy to temporarily freeze muscle nerves, tighten pores and stimulate collagen. Skin is blasted with highly pressurised liquid nitrogen vapour, which is -162°C. My glow lasted about two weeks and I was really impressed,” says Lottie Winter, GLAMOUR