Our Favorite Collections From the First Half of Moscow Fashion Week
After tackling the Fall 2018 shows in New York, London and Milan and Paris, we've kept the fashion train rolling all the way through to Moscow, where the 35th season of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia (#MBFWRussia) is currently underway in the nation's capital.
Before the show began, Anastasia Dokuchaeva, who made her fashion week debut last March, provided front row guests with futuristic strap buckle glasses, setting the tone for the high-energy, holographic and neon-hued collection. With her Fall 2018 line, Dokuchaeva freed us from the mundanity of everyday life by offering oversize iridescent accessories, such as plastic totes and duffle bags, which were paired with outerwear in highlighter yellows and pinks, extra-long belts and bright hosiery. The collection was well-tailored and presented a wearable range of separates done in playful animal prints, polka dots, velvets and shiny fabrics. Dokuchaeva certainly captured the essence of youth and its desire to defy any societal restraints with un-quiet clothes that make for a fun entrance.
Shanghai-based Artem Shumov closed out the second night of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia, with attendees clamoring for a spot at his buzzed-about show. The Russian-born menswear designer presented his eighth collection in Moscow, which was inspired by the culture of his home base in China. "Every day I see an incredible harmony of modern architecture and Shanghai's lifestyle mixed with traditional customs of Asian culture," he explains. "I wanted to highlight this oxymoron through my collection, so I combined comfort with details that symbolize owners' status, for example, jackets with buttons, first handmade in Bangkok and then engraved by local artisans with peony flower, a national Chinese Symbol." What came out of this visual moodboard was a darkly-shaded collection based in outerwear, streetwear and comfortable suiting. Pops of color were thrown in via splatter painted white sneakers and abstract, all-over face makeup.
On the first night of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia, Arut Arustamyan took us on a sequined trip with his Fall 2018 collection for his namesake label. Models quickly strutted to throwback '80s hits, appropriately dressed from head-to-toe in glitter and high-gloss leather. Body-hugging, strong-shouldered metallic silver and shiny black garments dominated, but toward the end, a sequined sea of plum and turquoise appeared in long, strapless gowns and big, ruffled one-shouldered tops. Arustamyan also experimented with capes and billowy silhouettes. Some standout pieces included a "The Matrix"-inspired trench coat and a cropped jacket with feather embellished sleeves.
Atelier B by Gala B
Gala Borzova, the designer behind Atelier B by Gala B, styled for Russian brands for more than 12 years before deciding to launch her own line just a few years ago. This was her second season at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia, and she delivered a Fall 2018 rain-ready range inspired by Russia's wet climate. Models walked to the tunes of Rihanna's "Umbrella," covered in plastic: There were clear bucket hats, headscarves, knee-high shoe coverings, ponchos, skirts and umbrellas."You always need an umbrella, because the summer and winter in Russia is very rainy," explains Borzova. "We tried to make our eveningwear looks more wearable and casual, so we used plastic because it's easy to take care of and it makes wearing fur while it's raining possible." Borzova also showed a series of tweed blazer and shorts sets done in baby pink, a poppy orange and an airy blue. Many of the dresses and pants were made up of feathery furs and large amounts of tulle, which gave them a voluminous shape and great whimsical movements down the runway.
For Fall 2018, Yasya Minochkina caught the royal bug: Her womenswear line was inspired by the late Princess Diana and the newest family addition, Meghan Markle. The Central Saint Martins-trained talent has cooked up some of our favorite Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia collections since 2014, and has continued to remain one of the highlights of the week. This collection included an assortment of gold foil dresses with pleated detailing, skirts made from a fine embroidered lace, simple crewneck knits, snakeskin suits and a loose-fitted, fuzzy fuchsia robe coat. It was easy to see how the eveningwear looks, which featured plunging necklines and sheer overlay, were rooted in the boundary-pushing, forward-thinking spins that both past and present royals have impressed on their strict wardrobe etiquette.